Fushimi Inari Taisha

The mountainside behind Fushimi Inari Taisha turns red: thousands of torii, the gateways to a Shinto shrine, packed rim to rim into corridors that climb for hours. Every single gate was bought and donated (a thank-you, or a prayer, to Inari, the kami of rice and prosperity) with the giver's name and date inked on the back, unseen as you climb, waiting the moment you turn to come down. A ledger of gratitude, begun in 711 and still growing.